The tinder-dry yellowed thistles alongside the neglected military road leading to Ghajar are not the only thing which could ignite any minute in that region. Tempers too are riding high. As I leaned against one of the concrete road blocks outside the village, waiting for permission from the IDF to enter and admiring the houses painted in sorbet shades of pinks, blues, yellows and greens, a minibus pulled up beside me and the window opened.